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Heon JournalGuides

Gold chain types guide: cable, curb, rope, herringbone, and more

6 min read

Six 14K gold chain link styles including cable, curb, rope, and herringbone

The most popular types of gold chains are cable, curb (including Cuban), rope, herringbone, paperclip, box, rolo, ball, popcorn and mariner. They differ in the shape of the link: round or oval links give a classic look, twisted links like rope catch the most light, and flat styles like herringbone lie smooth against the skin. For everyday wear, a cable, rope or curb chain is the easiest place to start, and the chart below shows how each style looks, wears and layers.

In this guide9

What are the different types of gold chains?

Chain style What the links look like Feel and wear How Heon makes it
Cable What the links look like Uniform oval links, each at a right angle to the next Feel and wear Light and classic; the go-to pendant chain How Heon makes it Solid, diamond-cut
Curb What the links look like Twisted links that lie flat Feel and wear Smooth on the skin; unisex How Heon makes it Solid (flat curb)
Cuban What the links look like A thick, tightly interlocked curb Feel and wear Bold and substantial How Heon makes it Semi-hollow
Rope What the links look like Links twisted into a spiral Feel and wear Catches light from every angle How Heon makes it Semi-hollow
Herringbone What the links look like Flat, slanted links in a V pattern Feel and wear Liquid and sleek; avoid kinking it How Heon makes it Solid
Paperclip What the links look like Long, elongated links Feel and wear Modern and airy; great for layering How Heon makes it Dainty and flat styles solid, 3mm and thick semi-hollow
Box What the links look like Square, boxy links Feel and wear Structured and strong for pendants How Heon makes it Solid
Rolo What the links look like Round, uniform links Feel and wear Sturdy and easy to wear every day How Heon makes it Semi-hollow
Belcher What the links look like Round links like a rolo, often broader Feel and wear Weighty and even; a strong pendant chain How Heon makes it Full solid
Mariner What the links look like Oval links with a bar across the center Feel and wear Nautical and bold How Heon makes it Semi-hollow
Ball and popcorn What the links look like Polished beads, or domed links Feel and wear Soft, rounded shine How Heon makes it Solid

“Solid,” “semi-hollow” and “hollow” describe what is inside each link, not the gold itself: every Heon chain is 14K gold, either solid or semi-hollow. Our guide to solid vs. hollow gold chains explains the difference.

What is a cable chain?

A cable chain is the classic chain: uniform oval links, each connected at a right angle to the next. It is simple and versatile, and it is the most common chain for pendants. Our diamond-cut cable chain adds tiny facets to each link, so it sparkles without a single stone.

What is a curb chain, and how is a Cuban chain different?

A curb chain uses links that are twisted so they lie flat against the skin, giving a smooth, slightly bolder look than a cable chain. A Cuban chain is a type of curb chain with thicker, rounder links set tightly together, which makes it heavier-looking and more of a statement.

Our flat curb chain is solid and dainty. Our Miami Cuban link chain is semi-hollow, with a thick gold wall around a small hollow core, which keeps the wider widths comfortable to wear.

What is a rope chain?

A rope chain twists small links into a spiral that looks like woven rope. The twist catches light from every angle, so even a thin rope chain shines. Our rope chain necklace and the matching rope chain bracelet are semi-hollow: a thick gold wall around a small core keeps even the wider widths comfortable to wear.

Heon 14K gold rope chains in four widths draped over travertine stone
Rope chain in four widths, from a fine everyday chain to a bolder statement.

What is a herringbone chain?

A herringbone chain is made of flat, slanted links laid in a V pattern, so it lies on the neck like a ribbon of liquid gold. It is sleek and modern. Because it is flat, it can kink if it is folded or tangled, so store it laid flat or hanging. See our herringbone chain.

What is a paperclip chain?

A paperclip chain uses long, elongated links that look like paperclips. It has a clean, modern look and is one of the easiest chains to layer. We make it in several builds: the dainty 1.8mm paperclip necklace and the flat paperclip chain are solid, the 3mm paperclip chain and the thick paperclip chain are semi-hollow.

What other gold chain styles are there?

  • Box chain: square links for a structured, geometric look and a strong base for pendants. See our rounded box chain.
  • Rolo chain: round, uniform links. Our rolo chain necklace and rolo chain bracelet are semi-hollow, so they stay light for their size.
  • Belcher chain: round links like a rolo, often a little broader. Our belcher chain is full solid, about twice the weight of our rolo chain at a similar width.
  • Mariner chain: oval links with a bar across the center, inspired by anchor chains. See our mariner link necklace, which is semi-hollow.
  • Ball chain: small polished beads in a row, for a soft, rounded shine. See our ball chain necklace.
  • Popcorn chain: domed links that catch the light as they move. See our popcorn chain.

How do you choose a gold chain style?

  • For a pendant: cable, box, rolo and belcher chains hold a pendant well and let it move freely. For a heavier pendant, choose solid links, such as a cable, box or belcher chain.
  • For everyday wear on its own: rope, curb and herringbone chains look finished without a pendant.
  • For layering: mix textures, such as a paperclip with a rope, and vary lengths by about 2 inches (5 cm). Our guide to layering gold necklaces shows how, and the necklace length guide helps you pick each length.
  • For durability: choose solid links with a secure clasp, and match the chain’s thickness to how you live. Very fine chains need a little more care.
  • Not ready to commit? A bracelet is an easy way to try a new link style.

Frequently asked questions

What is the most durable gold chain style?

Durability depends more on the build than the style. Solid links, a sturdy width and a secure clasp matter most. Among styles, tightly linked chains such as curb, rolo, box and rope hold up well to daily wear, while herringbone can kink if folded. A hollow chain of any style dents more easily than a solid one.

Can different chain styles be layered together?

Yes. Mixing textures, like a flat herringbone with a twisted rope, looks intentional and helps each chain stand out. Space the lengths about 2 inches (5 cm) apart to reduce tangling.

What’s the difference between a cable chain and a rolo chain?

A cable chain uses oval links connected at right angles, while a rolo chain uses round, uniform links. Rolo chains look slightly chunkier at the same width. A belcher chain has round links like a rolo, often broader; at Heon, the belcher is full solid and the rolo is semi-hollow.

What is the best gold chain for a pendant?

A solid cable, box or belcher chain. Their links let the pendant slide and hang straight, and solid links handle the rubbing of a pendant best.

Which gold chain style shines the most?

Rope chains and diamond-cut chains shine the most, because their twisted or faceted surfaces catch light from many angles. Herringbone has a smoother, mirror-like shine.

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